Friday 2 December 2011

Opening the Doors of Dior


Dior Couture” (Rizzoli), by the photographer Patrick Demarchelier, is far and away the most gorgeous book on the house, established by Christian Dior shortly after the end of World War II. It’s not a complete record; Mr. Demarchelier, working closely with Dior, shows roughly 150 dresses, suits and coats, all of them made in the Dior ateliers from 1947 to 2011, and preserved in the archives. Obviously that’s a fraction of Dior’s output.

And it’s not a representative survey of house talent. There are examples of Christian Dior’s early work, like the famous 1947 bar suit with its neat peplum, and a natural-line Mirza dress in chic polka dots from 1951. Yves Saint Laurent, who succeeded Dior at his death, in 1957, is represented with two killer dresses, including one in a deep-red floral print with a very modern sense of shape. Marc Bohan has two outfits. Gianfranco Ferré gets none.

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