Tuesday 23 August 2011

Vogue Italia accused of racism for 'Slave earrings' feature


Jewellery has always flirted with circular shapes, especially for use in making earrings. The most classic models are the slave and creole styles in gold hoops. If the name brings to the mind the decorative traditions of the women of colour who were brought to the southern Unites [sic] States during the slave trade, the latest interpretation is pure freedom. Colored stones, symbolic pendants and multiple spheres. And the evolution goes on."

But within hours of being published, the feature faced stinging worldwide criticism, the strongest of which claimed Vogue Italia was guilty of a "disgraceful" attempt to "glamourise slavery".

Vogue Italia stay ahead of the curve

One blogger called Chezney, wrote "There is absolutely nothing fashionable about the history of enslaved Africans."

Angry readers mounted a campaign where followers could tweet Italian Vogue to register their fury.

Demanding a full apology and the withdrawal of the feature it continued: "In this latest example by Vogue Magazine, we want the ad removed immediately and we want a specific apology to Black women because Black womens' supposed slave narratives were used in the promulgation of the ad."

Marianne Smith wrote: "Are you serious? I hope that you get truly humiliated for this worldwide vogue. This is disgraceful. You should be ashamed. Since when does an African design for earrings become a "slave" design. This will backfire on you badly and I'm going to make sure that happens."

Other angry posters put up the private email address of Vogue writer Anna Bassi.

The Telegraph contacted Vogue Italia's editor in chief Franca Sozzani, who also writes a blog for the vogue.it website. She told us: "We apologise for the inconvenience. It is a matter of really bad translation from Italian into English. The Italian word, which defines those kind of earrings, should instead be translated into "ethnical style earrings". Again, we are sorry about this mistake which we have just amended in the website".

Sozzani is famed for tackling the controversial topics which orbit the fashion world head-on.

The July 2008 issue of the magazine was entirely dedicated to black girls and their website hosts a 'V Black' section dedicated to black models, celebrities and bloggers; alongside 'V Curvy' aimed at plus-size women.

Sozzani also fronts an online campaign 'Vogue.it Against Pro-Anorexia Websites' which petitions to shut down sites offering advice and encouragement to girls who want to stop eating. The campaign already has 9,424 signatures.

In a recent Vogue.it blog post, Sozzani tackled the issue of racism in the fashion industry.

"It is true that there are very few black models around," she wrote pointing out that there is however "a new generation of models coming from Tunisia and Morocco. Northern Africa. Their skin is amber-colored and not precisely black."

"There are many black beauties around and there would be even more if agencies would choose to scout in those countries. Instead, all agencies go to Eastern Europe, as if it were the only breeding ground for models."

"Involving racism is totally inappropriate and also an easy choice. Finding real solutions is more challenging and burdensome. We try to do our best through Vogue Italia and the website, with a dedicated channel, so why can't others do the same instead of complaining or, worse, condemning?"

She ends by pointing out that the present issue of Vogue Italia's sister publication, L'Uomo Vogue, featured Beyoncé on the cover, following cover turns by Jay-Z, Puff Daddy, Snoop Dogg.

Michelle Obama evening dress sparks race row over 'nude' description

The fashion world may have to rethink other accepted terminology. Bracelets worn on the upper arm are traditionally referred to as 'slave bangles', while America's First Lady, Michelle Obama, inadvertently kicked off a race row last year after a fashion pundit from Associated Press referred to her Naeem Khan dress as a 'nude strapless gown'.

The news agency was compelled to revise its reference to the dress colour from "flesh" to "champagne" after one fashion editor objected, asking: "Whose flesh? Not hers."


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